What Can Red Wiggler Worms Eat? [Infographic]

Greetings worm farmers! For this month’s blog post, we decided to do something a little bit different.

We put our heads together here at The Squirm Firm, and we’ve come up with this amazing infographic to help you answer the question, “What can red wiggler worms eat?”

Red wiggler worms are practically vegans. Their diet consists mostly of vegetables and fruits, no meat, dairy or anything greasy. Healthy human foods are generally healthy for red wigglers too, but there are some important differences. Check out the infographic below!


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What Can Red Wiggler Worms Eat? - Infographic

Do you ever worry if you’re feeding your worms a healthy diet? This infographic is now available as a 13″ x 19″ refrigerator magnet at The Squirm Firm.

With this infographic by your side, you’ll never have to worry again. Click here to check ’em out!

Food to keep red wigglers’ hearts – all five of them — healthy:

Red wigglers enjoy a wide variety of fruits and vegetables.

  • Vegetables: including celery, lettuce, carrots, broccoli, corn, cucumbers and cabbage
  • Fruits (non citrus only): including watermelon, grapes, peaches, cherries, pears and apples
  • Cooked Beans: black, pinto, white, and garbanzos are fine

Never add these foods to your worm bin:

There also are foods and materials that should never be added to the worm bin. For example, non-biodegradable materials don’t do any harm but they take up precious space.

  • Citrus fruits: they contain a compound called d-limonene, which can harm your worms
  • Meats, fish, bones, dairy, and eggs: these create foul odors and attract unwelcome visitors
  • Oily, greasy, salty, spicy foods: they are too hard to digest
  • Pet feces: may contain pathogens that are not welcome in the compost

Then there are the middle-ground foods that red wigglers can eat occasionally.

Foods which are okay for red worms in moderation:

These are starchy foods – think potatoes, grains and bread. Make sure you don’t overdo them; do not feed these items unless you are sure that your worms have finished any other starches that are already in your worm bin. Aside from too many being unhealthy for the worms, the presence of starches can encourage annoying gnats to move into your worm composting bin.

  • Pizza crust (without the cheese)
  • Pasta (no butter sauce)
  • Rice (brown or white, long or short grain)
  • Bread (whole wheat, sourdough or whatever you like)
  • Pancakes (or waffles without the whipped butter or cream)

Some extra red wiggler feeding tips:

Of course, red wigglers also enjoy materials not in a healthy human diet. These items include shredded newspapers, crushed eggshells, coffee grounds, tea bags (without the staple), and paper egg cartons.

To keep your compost more chemical-free, be sure to rinse off the vegetables and fruits before tossing them in the bin. Even better, choose to eat only organic foods.

Occasionally add some fine soil or crushed eggshells – aka grit — to the compost bin. This helps the toothless warms process their food. Better yet, blend the food before feeding; this speeds up digestion, allowing your worms to process more food in less time.

So how do I remember all of this?

If this seems like a lot to take in, that’s because it is. So, in order to help you out we have decided to offer this infographic in physical form.

You can now order this infographic as a 13″ x 19″ refrigerator magnet!

Imagine you just finished with breakfast, and are about to rush out the door to go to work. You don’t remember if the scraps from your breakfast would be an appropriate breakfast for your worms.

You want to make sure you are feeding your worms a nutritious diet, but you don’t have the time to go research online.

Our new “What Can Red Wigglers Eat?” Infographic Refrigerator Magnet may be just what you need. Click here to check them out!

If you found this infographic useful, and would like more great worm composting tips, tricks, and how-to’s, sign up for our newsletter using the bar at the top of this page. Happy worming!

Article by Bob Kenney

Readers Comments (95)

  1. My red wrigglers are not migrating up to the second tray even though I’ve been feeding them there for a couple of months now. The first tray that they are living in looks awesome and ready to use if they would move out.

    Reply
    • One way to encourage red wigglers to leave a tray is to expose it to bright light. Place the active tray above the one you would like them to migrate to. The worms will move downward away from the light source into the dark tray below. Then you can reset the trays and get to using that beautiful worm compost!

      Reply
  2. Instead of crushed eggshells (which I don’t usually have as I don’t use or eat eggs regularly) can I use crushed or powdered oyster shells?

    Reply
  3. great info. thanks!

    Reply
  4. Thank you for the most informative article. Being new at this brings up more questions than I would have believed possible.

    Reply
    • Hi, Joyce! Always learning, right?! Stay tuned, we are planning even more informative articles on feeding your compost worms what would otherwise be waste. If you have any more questions, feel free to throw them our way. Happy to help!

      Reply
  5. Ingo Boscheinen July 27, 2018 @ 9:33 pm

    Hi Francesca, I’m in Australia and love reading your posts. Vermiculture is on the rise here and we are working on beautiful timber worm farm. I am a builder and have developed a Cedar Worm Home, fully waterproofed and with a tray to collect tea. Perfect for balconies and garages. Plastic gets too hot in our climate. You can email me to further discuss, Warm Regards Ingo Boscheinen.

    Reply
    • Hi, Ingo! I love your enthusiasm! I’ll bet you designed a great structure for your worms! I’m curious about how you waterproofed it and if that would be enough to protect the worms from cedar oils getting to the worms. Cedar contains toxins that are harmful to worms. They’ll avoid it and be okay if they have enough space to get away to, but I don’t recommend direct contact if that can be helped. Glad to know that vermiculture is alive and well around the world! Thanks for sharing!

      Reply
  6. Thank you so much for sharing your info. I live in South Africa and it doesn’t seem like Vermiculture is very big here. So I found your blog very valuable. I realised now that some of the foods I am feeding my worms aren’t the best – like Orange peals and Pineapple peals.

    Was also concerned that my castings are very clumpy and moist and the videos all looks nice and dry – you explained that very well. Thank you

    Reply
    • I love to see how vermiculture is spreading! Thank you for picking it up and starting a very good thing in your corner of the world! Please share what you are learning. It’s good for everyone! Let us keep you in the loop, sign up for our free monthly newsletter. http://thesquirmfirm.com/sign-worm-composting-tips/” Happy worm composting.

      Reply
    • Can Avacado and or Avacado peels be fed to the worms?

      Reply
      • Hi Emillie!

        Yes, both the avocado flesh and peel, even the seed, can be fed to the worms. They love the perfectly slurpable texture of the flesh. And while the peel and seed take much longer to be broken down, but eventually they too become part of the bedding that becomes the dark, rich, and natural fertilizer we love.

        Reply
  7. Hi. Nick from South Africa again. I have been harvesting and never concerned myself with eggs. Didn’t realise they would be all mixed in – makes sense though. So, Is there a way of separating the castings from the eggs without a sieve?

    Reply
    • Hi, Nick. Yeah, those little egg sacks are easy to lose track of in all that worm cast compost! Without a sieve, I’m afraid it’s up to your eyes and fingertips to do the work. I personally don’t actually sieve my cocoons out, as much as sift the compost so that it’s all light and fluffy. Then I’m able to really easily rake through to find them. I still need to pick them out by hand, but its way easier when there are no clumps for cocoons to hide in. Best of luck! Let us know if you come up with another brilliant method!

      Reply
      • do fine sand particles help in any way

        Reply
        • L K Mishra, Interesting! But help what exactly? I’m wondering if you may mean digestion. I would think if they consume it, it would help break down the food just like it could in a gizzard. Furthermore, if that sand ends up in a beautiful worm compost, it will be a benefit to your garden. However it’s not particularly nutritious, and it is very heavy. I don’t know that it could hurt though. Great question.

          Reply
      • I use my Coffee grinder, which basically pulverizes the shells. You can also microwave the shells…makes the shells nice and crispy to turn into a fine powder.

        Reply
  8. I’ve been wondering if adding wild mushrooms. Living in Maine, USA and we gather mushrooms regularly on our walks – some we eat but others – of course not. Still, would the worms be fussy? If yes to the idea of adding wild mushrooms – should I run the through the blender first or let them rot a bit before adding them to the menu?

    Thanks much.

    Reply
  9. Is it okay to blend up moldy fruits or veggies and feed them to the worms? berry season just passed a bit ago and I had some strawberries I forgot about in the refer.

    Reply
    • Yes, Sean. Blending up molding fruits and veggies to serve to your worms is still safe. There are microorganisms in the bin that feed specifically on mold. Go for it!

      Reply
  10. Love this information very helpful! I’m new to worms and have a nice starter bin, my worms are active and according to your chart I’ve got the right food in there but I just can’t tell if they’re eating it or if I need to put something else in. I so worried they’ll starve! How long does it usually take them to eat a small handful of leafy vegetables?

    Reply
    • I just use a blender, grind up food to a slurry, then dig a trench about 3 in. Deep and fill it he trench. Then cover With about an inch of cover. When I remove the inch of cover, I find solid worms down there all wiggling.

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  11. Awesomeness, thanks at all!

    Reply
  12. So glad to have stumbled upon this site! I am about to harvest for the first time. My question is how long can the castings be kept and do they need to be stored in a certain manner?

    Reply
    • Hi Cindee! Thanks for asking! Damp castings remain a very nutritious fertilizer for up to 3 years when kept aerated and adequately moist. The living organisms within the compost require fresh oxygen to have a healthy aerobic environment.

      Reply
  13. Good information, thanks. One more question, can the worms thrive on weeds from my garden. How about a small helping of grass clippings? Thanks for your efforts.

    Reply
    • Hi, Lorraine! Worms are happy to eat up lots of different vegetation. Its best to serve such things mixed with other browns so as not to overwhelm the bin with heat-producing/ nitrogen packed greens that can mat, mold, heat up, and block things like air flow and drainage. Watch that your clippings are also pesticide-free as that is harmful to the ecosystem of the worm bin. Also, avoid all known toxic plants- poison ivy, sumac, etc.

      Reply
  14. I have moved my worms into the house for the winter but now I have a gnat problem. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • Indoor pests are no bueno. Fungus gnats, like many other small flying insects find the worm bin the ideal place to breed. Prevention is key! To get rid of them, I’ve heard coffee grounds can work quite well. Aside from that I suggest vacuuming up the adults or catching them on fly paper or in a solution they may not be able to fly away from. Best of luck!

      Reply
  15. Gnats do show up. Been told by my mother that the gnats are on the fruit, so always wash your fruit and vegetables. In my worm factory I put apple cider vinegar in medicine bottles and place in the corners. Gnats are attracted to the sweetness. I am new to this site but find it very informative. Lately I have been taking my red’s to the beach, it’s fun.

    Reply
    • Ah, I too have become very fond of my reds – they’re my friends now. My partner thinks I’m pretty nutty because I have a bit of a chat to the worm farm. But I think they’ve got spirit and they do such a good job eating all our veggie scraps. The least I can do is thank them and check how they are right??? 🙂

      Reply
  16. Hi everybody, I am from Namibia, a grade 4 learner and I want to start a worm farm to teach other children to use leftovers to create one’s own garden soil and it is good to give back to nature. Any other ideas on what I need to keep track of in my little black book? Thank you Keanu Pool

    Reply
    • Hi Keanu! So great to hear of your desire to pass on the wisdom of worm composting with others. Just think of how much can be done if we work together! There are so many great reasons to practice worm composting. It is a way to truly heal the soil, reduce our negative impact, and also teaches children (people) to be ONE with nature- to live harmoniously. By the way, stay tuned- April’s article is all about why composting worms make great pets too! Check out our Getting Started articles for much more, https://thesquirmfirm.com/tag/getting-started/.

      Reply
  17. Hello I am so pleased to join and discuss worms. I have had a worm farm for years but I have not really learnt to think it is improving my garden. I use the castings and the juice to spread over plants but they don’t seem to grow. I tested the castings ph and it read alkaline about 8. So my farm has got problems. What do you think???

    Reply
    • Hello Rhonda, welcome! If you have had a worm composting operation going for years, I’ll bet you are doing just fine. If a slightly alkaline reading of 8 seems not to be bothering your worms, then I would suggest making sure you just keep adding a nice mixture of browns and greens for bedding and food. As for your soil, make sure to mix the worm compost into the soil for best results. And be careful with the “juice”, that is leachate which can damage plants if used in too strong a concentration.

      Reply
      • mixing the pot up i’m gonna say neccesary evil but the worms hate you for it and try to escape till you force them to go back into your container..may lost a bit of worms cause of mixing you do need have a little time doing it cause yah worms will get a bit poed at yah

        Reply
        • Thanks JW. You bring up a good point. When turning your worm bedding for aeration, feedings, or even to dry it out, it is important to be pretty gentle and to use a tool with blunt edges. Try using a hand rake with only 4 widely spaced tines. It protects the worms and effectively lifts bedding without slicing through any of the material or inhabitants. A dedicate hand rake for worm composting is one of my very favorite things. If you need one, check out our worm composting accessories page.

          Reply
        • Soo it looks like my worm just left half of its body in the soil. I’m not sure which worm it is to check and see if it’s ok. Is it normal for worms to shed their body?

          Reply
          • Hi J. Normally worms do not shed their bodies. Normally meaning never. Sometimes worms with sour crop, or string of pearls disease, will fall apart into pieces though. But that ends up being the end of them. Sorry! Maybe it’s just a long piece of poop!

  18. I am new and a visual learner. I would love if you could post some videos starting at the beginning with a new set up and show us how to do this. I don’t know what it should look like when castings are ready to use, how to use them or make tea and what flowers I can use it on.

    Reply
  19. I was worried about putting avocado in my bin. I’m glad I found your page and a got a great explanation. I am going to run the seed on a cheese grater and then let it sit out for awhile too. I have been putting my egg shells in a grinder before putting them in my bin. Is this ok?

    Reply
    • If you enjoy growing avocado plants, your worm bin can help. I put mine in the bin, let the worms clean them off and because it’s dark and damp in there it’s the perfect environment for them to sprout. I forget about them until I harvest castings and then I find them, 1/2 way to ready to plant.

      Reply
  20. I would like to start a worm bin/farm but know that my wife and I would never be able to produce enough food scraps to keep them fed. My question to you is, if I were to pulverize the food in a food processer and add pulverized well aged horse manure to the food, would this be a good food source for the worms?

    Reply
    • Dear Dallas, Compost worms absolutely love well-aged horse manure. It is an excellent way to supplement the food scraps you create from home. You are ready to get started! Enjoy!

      Reply
  21. Dear Francesca, in reference to the well-aged horse manure you mentioned: I read that some worm-growers are concerned that the horse manure will contain residues of the de-worming paste most stabled horses get once every few months. I have my doubts, because the worms that the paste is meant to kill are internal worms of the intestines, and very different. On the other hand, other people claim that the diversity of dung beetles is diminishing fast in Europe, due to the practice of deworming that is so widespread. So for the moment I am reluctant to add even well-aged horse manure to my colony. Do you have more solid information on this?

    Reply
    • I am far from an authority on the subject of horse deworming agents and how they affect red wigglers. However, I can tell you that worms on horse farms often thrive on the piles of manure left to decompose. I would also assume that once passing through the gut of the horse and being left to decompose, it would become inert, or no longer toxic. Furthermore, all I’ve read on the topic does lead me to believe that even treated horses create manure that worms find to be the ideal bedding and feed. Try a little bit to start and work your way up. Let us know if you discover anything else!

      Reply
  22. Where does coffee grounds fall in this chart? Is there such a thing as too many eggs shells (I crush them fine as dust)? Is there any reason to ever add things in the yellow strip? Is it beneficial to the worms to have small amounts of these, or just as good to leave them out entirely?

    Reply
    • Great questions TAMMY. Coffee grounds fall into the green section. Fresh coffee grounds are too acidic, but used coffee grounds mixed into already established bedding should work well for you.

      As for eggshells, there isn’t too much concern for too much eggshell in a well-established bin. That means there would be plenty of other types of material in there as well. As long as they are well crushed up, they are a good source of grit and calcium in the bin. And the foods in the yellow section- I’d say try to avoid them for the most part but don’t worry too much if a little gets in there. Enjoy!

      Reply
  23. I have a harvesting question – I use primarily coffee grounds & filters as feed. Occasionally melon rinds and spent fruit. My worm bin has three stacked trays. When the bottom tray is ready the castings are one big block, almost jello like. How do I turn that into the crumbly pea size castings that you see with commercial castings?

    Reply
    • Hello John. I am intrigued by what you say your finished compost turns out as. My bottom tray, when finished, is also one big block. But once I let it dry out a bit and dump it, it comes apart and becomes much more crumbly. I think that as long as your worms seem happy, the food you are using is just fine. I’m pretty sure that if you allow the tray to dry out a bit you can sift the compost through the holes to get that loose and lovely texture you are looking for. You can bring your bottom tray to the top and leave it at least partially uncovered to let the worms move down and out and the moisture to evaporate into the air. You’ve got this!

      Reply
  24. Hi there,

    I’m very new to this and I am really interested in getting started. I live in a zone 4 (northern Ontario, Canada). I don’t have the option of moving the worms indoors during the winter, do you think that adding hay/leaves will adequately insulate it for them?

    Reply
    • Hi, Renee. The short answer is that it depends. If you are just starting out and can plan accordingly- an outdoor worm bed built into the ground would be a viable option. Or if you could build a kind of box to put them in in the winter, and even heat it, then insulate them in. Actually, there are lots of creative ways that worm farmers in cooler regions have been really successful! I say, give it a try! We’re here to help you along the way! Check out , https://thesquirmfirm.com/prepare-worm-bin-winter/ There you’ll find 5 steps to preparing your worm bins for winter!

      Reply
  25. Vickie Darling April 19, 2020 @ 6:12 pm

    Do you put water in the worm bed sometime or is this not a good idea just wondering how the worms get water tks vickie

    Reply
    • Hi Vicky. Moisture content in the worm bin is really important to keep high. There are definitely times it makes sense to add water. Its essential for the worms to be able to breathe! Try a moisture meter to check that you are keep their bedding close to 80% humidity. IF you don’t have one already, you can find them here for a reasonable price. https://shop.thesquirmfirm.com/worm-composting-accessories/ Make sure you have drainage on the bottom before you add much water. And remember, food is often a source of water for the worms too. Moisten bedding before adding it to keep the humidity up as well. Thanks for your great question!

      Reply
  26. Great info thank you for this resource! Working on my worm tower, I notice my worms like to crawl down into the tray that’s used to collect the tea! Every week when I turn the bedding and check to see if they need food, I find quite a bit of refugees in the sauce tray 😟 I rescue them and return them to the bin but I am worried they are trying to escape unfavorable conditions. (Very alight mildew scent but not strong) Should I prepare a second tray of bedding as a catch for these adventurous wrigglers, or could it possibly be a ph imbalance? Thanks for the tips 💕

    Reply
    • Hey Jesse! Sauce tray! Love that term. So, your worms can be crawling down there for any of a bunch of reasons. Might it be too dry up top? Too hot? Too exposed? You can certainly prepare a second tray of bedding, BUT worms throughout the tower can and will just go right back down to the catch basin if that’s the best place to be. It’s also pretty normal for a few worms to be hanging out down there anyway. If it’s many, that’s a clue that something else is going on. I suggest a nice multipurpose moisture/pH meter so you can always be sure those 2 are solid. You can pick one up here if you need it: https://shop.thesquirmfirm.com/worm-compost-ph-moisture-meter/ . Keep up the great attention you are paying to your worms!

      Reply
      • I’m a chef/gardener raising worms for decades. A lightweight chipper breaks down clippings and food scraps going into the worm bed and does a great job breaking down the castings. The worms’ bed is a pallet with a sheet metal floor with 1/4” mesh over a wood frame. With a mesh divider down the middle, I finish a 4-6 month cycle in one side and start a new one on the other. As the food supply dwindles in the old bin, they move to the new one! For this size of beds, I bring home food scraps and card board from the kitchen, my job. This keeps a 3000 sq. ft. garden supplied with castings. Also, cover crops, no till gardening, and heavy mulching makes it much easier to keep up with.

        Reply
  27. I keep about 60 to 90 small red wigglers in a worm box to use for fishing. The box is made specifically for worms and the bedding I use is also made for use with worms. Other than feeding them commercial worm food purchased from Amazon, what else should I be doing to maintain the health of the worms?

    Reply
    • Hi Russ. I assume that you are doing well with the set up you have but will just say that you probably don’t need to feed the worms anything purchased. They are very content with food scraps and other natural brown material. For that matter, bedding made of paper or cardboard is also adequate and free. Good news, with 60 to 90 red wigglers in a box- soon you will have many more! I would suggest you keep the moisture content high and just give them enough space to grow! I love to hear of the different ways our readers are raising and using their red wigglers. Thanks for sharing!

      Reply
  28. I added grapes to my bin and left it for a few days (3-4). When I opened the lid, worms were running to get out! When I began digging, the grapes seemed to be fermenting and molding. Grapes aren’t a no go in the list, so curious as to what caused this. I removed the grapes and molding sediment

    Reply
    • Hi Julie. Phew! Nice catch on that one. You are absolutely right, grapes are an okay food. But in this case, they began to ferment and create acidic conditions. Weirdly, if it had only been one fermenting grape perhaps it would have been fine- it always depends on quantity and amount of space your worms have to escape from the nasty whatever that’s causing an issue. So, in the future, it’s maybe a good choice to maybe blend that food in with other very neutral browns. Also, you can smash your grapes so they are exposed to air from the start. Thanks for sharing your experience- I’m sure others will learn from it too!

      Reply
  29. We are starting a worm bin today! It’s all prepared, and buying red wigglers this afternoon. I’m wondering if dead flowers and flower leaves are okay to feed the worms? My geraniums drop a lot of leaves, and I’m deadheading in the garden (roses, daisies, lavender, etc.) Wondering if those are okay to feed the worms? What about herbs, like basil, oregano, etc? Thank you!

    Reply
  30. I have been practicing social isolation because the virus is out there. My red-worms are now my best friends. Without them I would have lost my social skills due to lack of use. I keep my reds on a strict diet of espresso pucks and ground egg shells, 10 years! I love the “how to prevent pest” section of this site. Thank you!
    PS occasionally I throw in a veg with seeds (well washed) as I love to see the seeds sprout from the humic acid?

    Reply
  31. Hi Francesca! I’m from South Africa and must say that vermicomposting is slowly getting more popular here.

    I just had one question regarding food for the worms: some people say that, along with citrus, the red wigglers are not fans of onions or onion peels where other people just chuck them in anyway. Is this so? I noticed onions weren’t on any part of your infographic so I thought I’d just ask.

    Thanks so much!

    Reply
  32. Great infographic, thanks!
    Are any herbs too potent/pungent for worm farms please?
    Thanks

    Reply
    • Some herbs may cause the temperature in your bin to be too hot. Others may hurt the worms and cause them to die. With that, you will want to put very small amount of herb in your bin if you cannot avoid doing so.

      When you are introducing new food to your worms, a good way to test if the worms will like it is to put a small amount of the food in one corner of the bin. That way, the worms can escape to another part of the bin if they need or want to.

      Reply
  33. Thanks for the article. We eat a lot of brocolli and end up with a lot of stem ends. Ì don’t see brocolli on the chart. Can we dice it up for the worms or isn’t it suitable?

    Reply
    • You will want to feed brocolli to worms in moderation as it has a strong smell. Cutting the stems into very small pieces will help the worms in consuming them fast and prevent it from being in the bin too long to smell.

      Reply
  34. Will worn eat unsweetened applesauce that you buy from the store

    Reply
    • There should be no problems feeding unsweetened applesauce to your worms. When you are introducing new food to your worms, a good way to test if the worms will like it is to put a small amount of the food in one corner of the bin. That way, the worms can escape to another part of the bin if they need or want to.

      Reply
  35. Hi folks, I have been worming for about a year. Just bought a 360 stackable worm bed. Have had the first tray going for about two weeks. Prior, or still going is a plastic container with air holes on sides, top and a few on bottom for drainage. Seems like my worms have doubled in a year! 1. Can too many worms be put into the 360 bin? I am only guessing that I might have 2#. Also 2nd question- when do I put the remaining trays on top oh the first one? Is it when I see them crawling up? Thanks

    Reply
  36. Hi
    I was wondering if perlite will harm my worms? I have some perlite that got crushed in the bag and is basically powder now. I was wondering if I can add some to my bin to act as grit? Will appreciate any advise. Thanks!

    Reply
    • You can sprinkle a little perlite on top of your bedding. They are very similar to diatomaceous earth that can help you keep insects like flies and ants away from your worm bin. And it will indeed be a good option for grit.

      Reply
  37. What about feeding the worms Kiwi? (outer skin and inside).
    What about feeding the worms Basil leaves?

    Thank you,

    Reply
    • Hi TK!

      Worms do love kiwi but you may want to watch the amount you feed them. Kiwis will add a lot of moisture into the bin and may cause problems related to it.

      Reply
  38. I have just joined this site. The comments are all April 2020. It is November 2021 is this site still current please.

    Reply
  39. Great info on this site. Will red wigglers eat onion greens from large onions? Can the onion greens harm these worms?

    Thanks

    Reply
  40. Thanks for the great info. Two questions I have, can I put dried apricots and prunes in a worm bin and I have a big problem with cockroaches and dirt cockroaches as well in my worm bin the dirt cockroaches breed like crazy so I dont want to use any of this dirt in my pots, my worms seem to be living with them fine, can you tell me what I have done wrong to get his problem. Thankyou

    Reply
    • Hi Deni!

      Red Wiggler worms love to eat. They love fruit peels and trimmings the most because it is easier for them to digest.

      Cockroaches love moisture which is why worm bins are attractive to them. You may want to frequently loosen up the bin with a small garden hand rake so that it disturbs the roaches and prevent them from settling in. You can also sprinkle a heap of boric acid for roaches in your worm bin if they won’t go away. Rest assured that boric acid is safe for worms. However, make sure to follow the instructions on the package for safety.

      Reply

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